The Amalfi Coast holds a special place in my
heart. I am fascinated by the powerful presence
of the sea, its rocky coastline, the variety of its
flora and fauna-and by its cuisine!
The last time I was there, I was delighted to meet Salvatore
De Riso, a member of the Accademia Maestri Pasticceri
Italiani and one of the glories of the Italian pastry world,
whose insistence on using only the highest-quality ingredients
evokes the passion of another era. The range of his creations,
each with a characteristic touch of lemon, is truly remarkable.
I could never forget his delizie al limone,
or the celebrated ricotta and pear cake,
such an exquisite blend of local flavours.
Then there is the babà, in its many
flavourful guises, the Anastasia cake, the
Scazzetta del Vescovo, the Peccato di gola,
his creamy chocolates
scented with wild
fennel, not to mention the Dolce d’Amalfi,
the pastiera, the sfogliatella-in both its
puff pastry and shortcrust
versions-flavoured with candied fruit, with
ricotta, with vanilla... need I go on?
With great affection.
World-famous oenologist
Intelligence, skill, and a joyous search for perfection are the hallmarks of De
Riso’s work. For those like him with the inner conviction of their craft, he
stands as a symbol of what is possible if you simply follow your inner voice.
Salvatore De Riso needs no convincing to follow his chosen
path: the acclaim he has accumulated from his peers, the
adoration of his customers have marked it out for him.
Spontaneous and gregarious, you can pick him out in an
instant in his shop in Minori, flitting from table to table in
the summertime to chat with customers, or popping up behind
the counter in winter to ensure that the service is perfect.
That is the way that Salvatore De Riso is.
Despite an ever-longer list of public
engagements in Italy and invitations abroad,
he is always there with you. Maybe not
always in person, but you feel the simplicity
and genuineness of his presence in
everything he does. It is unmistakable.
Master Confectionery,
founder member of the Academy of the Italian Master Confectioners
Salvatore De Riso and I are both
colleagues and countrymen. With years of
study and experience in common, we
share a link to the land of our birth. Its
colours, its flavours and scents are part
of our daily lives.
It is our pride that moves us both to take
our culinary traditions abroad, to make
the sweet and savoury of our historical memory live on in the
mouths of new generations, bringing elegantly and with a lightness
of touch the unique bounty of our soil to the tables of others.
In this regard, the rich traditions and precision techniques
of the pastry world have found in Salvatore De Riso a
great master.
Chef patron “Restaurant Don Alfonso 1890”,
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Sorrento Coast
If ever in my dreams “prohibited"
I imagined myself immersed in a tub
overflowed with sweetness, it happened
after seeing Salvatore De Riso work,
kneading, mounting, whip cream
chocolate, with an almost scientific
technique, with the wise modesty of one
who is sure of himself, and with
Carthusian patience of the artisans at
one time. If I had to define a portrait
of Salvatore I would describe him as a
strong coast man, wise and tenacious.
A “confectioner" in the full sense of the
word, you can imagine a fantastic
character of a children's fable, as the
absolute protagonist of modern
symposium on advanced techniques
of the art in which it excels.
Salvatore's image is not just that
of “his" lemons, “his" nuts, “his" ricotta
and everything that a land so fertile and generous offers. But alot of local
“God's gifts" did not prevent him from going to look elsewhere as
juxtapose, blending and joining scents and flavours of the Amalfi
Coast with scents and flavours of distant origins both within and
outside national boundaries, but always the best quality.
From the research to the fusion of excellent first materials originate
his wonderful sweets, and here more than anywhere else the word
“sweet" represents in full both the noun as the adjective qualifier.
Salvatore's cakes are generous just like himself. Only in “morceau"
there is the maximum of what you can expect from a dessert: the
suggestive pleasure and poetic visual and tactile enjoyment and
pleasure of the palate.
And this principle applies both to the recipes of the great tradition of those
that arise from his great imagination and creativity. In fact giving and
ingredient to Salvatore is like giving a “la" to a musician. From that note
he invents and forges a symphony to dedicate to a fruit, a season, a city,
a poem, a film, and why not,
a woman! Against sadness a flower can help
but if you turn your sleeves up and follow Salvatore's instructions you
will see that his recipes are real and proper formulas of happiness!
S. De Riso, “Dolci del sole”, ed. Rizzoli 2008, p.11
RAI Presenter
of “La prova del cuoco”
Sal De Riso Costa D'Amalfi
di Salvatore De Riso
Via S.Maria La Neve Tramonti (SA)
Tel. +39 089 85 64 46
Fax +39 089 87 63 12
e-mail info@deriso.it - P.IVA CF 02562030656
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